Far North Vietnam — 11 Days

The adventure begins in Hanoi. We slip out of the city early to miss the morning rush, then let the highway hand over to quieter country roads. This first day eases you in while still serving up scenery — the Red River, Son Tay, Thu Cuc, Ba Khe and the Hoang Lien foothills. It is a deliberately gentle start: time to get a feel for your bike, meet the group and learn how we ride together before the mountains arrive. Come evening you settle in around Nghia Lo, a rice-growing mountain town.

From Nghia Lo the road climbs and winds toward Than Uyen, running across bumpy mountain roads with gravel and dirt — wild and demanding. The day is built around its landmarks — Lung Lo Pass, Khau Pha Pass and the Mu Cang Chai mountains — with regular stops to rest, take photos and soak it in. Along the way you pass through the rice-terrace country of Mu Cang Chai, a reminder that this corner of Vietnam is as much about its people as its passes. Plan on about 5 hrs of riding at an unhurried pace, arriving in good time to settle into your overnight at Than Uyen.

From Than Uyen the road climbs and winds toward Sapa, running across easy tracks then scenic mountain roads. The day is built around its landmarks — Hoang Lien Son scenery and Sapa — with regular stops to rest, take photos and soak it in. Along the way you pass through Flower H’mong and Dzao communities, a reminder that this corner of Vietnam is as much about its people as its passes. Plan on about 5 hrs of riding at an unhurried pace, arriving in good time to settle into your overnight at Sapa.

From Sapa the road climbs and winds toward Bac Ha, running across a descent then a climb through mountain scenery. The day is built around its landmarks — Lao Cai on the China border and the ethnic villages of Bac Ha — with regular stops to rest, take photos and soak it in. Along the way you pass through the markets and villages around Bac Ha, a reminder that this corner of Vietnam is as much about its people as its passes. Plan on about 3 hrs of riding at an unhurried pace, arriving in good time to settle into your overnight at Bac Ha.

From Bac Ha the road climbs and winds toward Ha Giang, running across tracks and quiet back roads onto the main road. The day is built around its landmarks — Xin Man and quiet back-country — with regular stops to rest, take photos and soak it in. Along the way you pass through frontier permits arranged in Ha Giang, a reminder that this corner of Vietnam is as much about its people as its passes. Plan on about 6 hrs of riding at an unhurried pace, arriving in good time to settle into your overnight at Ha Giang.

From Ha Giang the road climbs and winds toward Dong Van, running across narrow mountain roads with tight zig-zags. The day is built around its landmarks — Ma Pi Leng Pass, the Nho Que River gorge, Dong Van ancient quarter and Dong Van Karst Plateau Geopark — with regular stops to rest, take photos and soak it in. Along the way you pass through northern hill-tribe communities and clay-brick H’mong houses, a reminder that this corner of Vietnam is as much about its people as its passes. Plan on about 6 hrs of riding at an unhurried pace, arriving in good time to settle into your overnight at Dong Van.

From Dong Van the road climbs and winds toward Bao Lac, running across rough track and roads under construction. The day is built around its landmarks — remote mountain views and Bao Lac — with regular stops to rest, take photos and soak it in. Along the way you pass through an ethnic crossroads and its famous Sunday market, a reminder that this corner of Vietnam is as much about its people as its passes. Plan on about 4 hrs of riding at an unhurried pace, arriving in good time to settle into your overnight at Bao Lac.

From Bao Lac the road climbs and winds toward Cao Bang, running across mountain passes and easy roads with blind curves. The day is built around its landmarks — the mountain passes of Cao Bang — with regular stops to rest, take photos and soak it in. Along the way you pass through the market towns of Cao Bang province, a reminder that this corner of Vietnam is as much about its people as its passes. Plan on about 5 hrs of riding at an unhurried pace, arriving in good time to settle into your overnight at Cao Bang.

From Cao Bang the road climbs and winds toward Cao Bang, running across a scenic run out and back on quiet roads. The day is built around its landmarks — Ban Gioc Waterfall — with regular stops to rest, take photos and soak it in. Along the way you pass through a swim below the falls when the weather allows, a reminder that this corner of Vietnam is as much about its people as its passes. Plan on about 5 hrs of riding at an unhurried pace, arriving in good time to settle into your overnight at Cao Bang.

From Cao Bang the road climbs and winds toward Ba Be, running across paved mountain roads, park tracks and a stream crossing. The day is built around its landmarks — Ba Be National Park, Pac Ngoi village and Ba Be Lake — with regular stops to rest, take photos and soak it in. Along the way you pass through the Tay people and a lakeside Pac Ngoi homestay, a reminder that this corner of Vietnam is as much about its people as its passes. Plan on about 4 hrs of riding at an unhurried pace, arriving in good time to settle into your overnight at Ba Be.

The final leg turns for home, trading the high country for rolling farmland and then the flat delta as we make our way back to Hanoi. There is still plenty to enjoy before the end — quiet mountain roads and Highway 3. After roughly 6 hrs in the saddle over an easy ride back to the city, we roll back into the city where the journey began. Bikes are handed in during the afternoon, and most riders stay on a night to raise a glass to the miles.