{"id":641,"date":"2026-10-06T01:51:45","date_gmt":"2026-10-06T01:51:45","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/mototour.vn\/?p=641"},"modified":"2026-10-08T02:33:36","modified_gmt":"2026-10-08T02:33:36","slug":"the-ancient-pavie-stone-road","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mototour.vn\/cs\/the-ancient-pavie-stone-road\/","title":{"rendered":"Starobyl\u00e1 kamenn\u00e1 cesta v Pavii"},"content":{"rendered":"

N\u011bkolik p\u0159\u00edb\u011bh\u016f o zapomenut\u00e9 historick\u00e9 cest\u011b<\/h3>\n

Na po\u010d\u00e1tku 20. stolet\u00ed se francouzsk\u00e1 koloni\u00e1ln\u00ed spr\u00e1va pustila do budov\u00e1n\u00ed a rozvoje \u0159ady nov\u00fdch tras, kter\u00e9 m\u011bly usnadnit sb\u011br a p\u0159epravu lesn\u00edch produkt\u016f, p\u0159\u00edrodn\u00edch zdroj\u016f a nerostn\u00fdch surovin, a tak\u00e9 p\u0159esun zbran\u00ed a z\u00e1sob.<\/p>\n

Kamenn\u00e1 cesta byla \u0161irok\u00e1 p\u0159ibli\u017en\u011b t\u0159i metry \u2013 dostate\u010dn\u011b na to, aby po n\u00ed mohli proch\u00e1zet lid\u00e9 a proj\u00ed\u017ed\u011bt povozy ta\u017een\u00e9 ko\u0148mi.<\/p>\n

Podle vypr\u00e1v\u011bn\u00ed pam\u011btn\u00edk\u016f a m\u00edstn\u00edch znalc\u016f z provinci\u00ed Lai Chau a Lao Cai na\u0159\u00eddil v roce 1927 guvern\u00e9r Auguste Jean-Marie Pavie v\u00fdstavbu silnice vedouc\u00ed z oblasti Sang Ma Sao \u2013 Tra Pha v provincii Lao Cai; trasa p\u0159ekon\u00e1vala horsk\u00e9 svahy a poho\u0159\u00ed Nhiu Co San a pokra\u010dovala do oblast\u00ed Sang Ma Pho (Sin Suoi Ho) \u2013 Phong Tho \u2013 Muong So v provincii Lai Chau.<\/p>\n

\"Kh\u00f4ng<\/p>\n

Dodnes se \u00fadajn\u011b dochovalo p\u0159ibli\u017en\u011b 30 kilometr\u016f p\u016fvodn\u00ed kamenn\u00e9 cesty, a\u010dkoli jej\u00ed zna\u010dn\u00e1 \u010d\u00e1st v pr\u016fb\u011bhu let utrp\u011bla zna\u010dn\u00e9 po\u0161kozen\u00ed.<\/p>\n

The construction of this road came at a tremendous human cost, demanding enormous amounts of sweat, hardship and, tragically, the lives of local labourers.<\/p>\n

Podle n\u011bkter\u00fdch zdroj\u016f v\u0161ak z\u016fst\u00e1v\u00e1 nejist\u00e9, zda byla tato cesta skute\u010dn\u011b vybudov\u00e1na za guvern\u00e9ra Pavieho. Prozat\u00edm ji nad\u00e1le naz\u00fdv\u00e1me starobylou kamennou cestou Pavie (Ancient Pavie Stone Road), jak je tradi\u010dn\u011b ozna\u010dov\u00e1na.<\/p>\n

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\n<\/div>\n

Po stop\u00e1ch starov\u011bk\u00e9 kamenn\u00e9 cesty<\/span><\/h1>\n

1. den<\/span><\/h2>\n

V na\u0161\u00ed skupin\u011b bylo p\u011bt motocykl\u016f \u2013 t\u0159i ter\u00e9nn\u00ed stroje a dv\u011b Hondy Wave. Jakmile jsme v\u0161ak vjeli na starobylou kamennou cestu, zd\u00e1lo se, \u017ee \u0159\u00edzen\u00ed ka\u017ed\u00e9ho z nich je stejn\u011b n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00e9.<\/p>\n

The smaller bikes constantly got hung up on rocks and bottomed out, while the bigger bikes were heavy and difficult to manoeuvre.<\/p>\n

Odhodlan\u00ed nenaj\u00edmat nosi\u010de zavazadel jsme se dychtiv\u011b vydali do Sang Ma Pho<\/strong> a v sobotu kolem 13. hodiny vstoupili na prvn\u00ed \u00fasek starobyl\u00e9 kamenn\u00e9 cesty.<\/p>\n

\"Kh\u00f4ng<\/p>\n

Na\u0161e telefony brzy za\u010daly ztr\u00e1cet sign\u00e1l a postupn\u011b n\u00e1s od\u0159\u00edzly od okoln\u00edho sv\u011bta.<\/p>\n

Krajina pod\u00e9l stezky byla fascinuj\u00edc\u00ed. Starobyl\u00e1 kamenn\u00e1 dla\u017eba porostl\u00e1 mechem n\u00e1s vedla v\u00fd\u0161 do hor a v n\u011bkter\u00fdch \u00fasec\u00edch jsme proj\u00ed\u017ed\u011bli koberci spadan\u00e9ho \u010derven\u00e9ho list\u00ed javor\u016f.<\/p>\n

S ka\u017ed\u00fdm metrem se obt\u00ed\u017enost zvy\u0161ovala.<\/p>\n

\"Kh\u00f4ng<\/p>\n

Na mnoha \u00fasec\u00edch bylo zapot\u0159eb\u00ed t\u0159\u00ed nebo \u010dty\u0159 lid\u00ed, kte\u0159\u00ed pom\u00e1hali protla\u010dit a nav\u00e9st jedin\u00fd motocykl. Neust\u00e1le jsme si opakovali:<\/p>\n

\u201eJakmile p\u0159ekon\u00e1me tohle stoup\u00e1n\u00ed, druh\u00e1 strana u\u017e mus\u00ed b\u00fdt hned za n\u00edm. Mus\u00edme b\u00fdt bl\u00edzko vrcholu.\u201c<\/em><\/p>\n

Zd\u00e1lo se v\u0161ak, \u017ee ka\u017ed\u00e9 stoup\u00e1n\u00ed vede k dal\u0161\u00edmu a pak k dal\u0161\u00edmu \u2013 zd\u00e1nliv\u011b bez konce.<\/p>\n

Proto\u017ee byla stezka tak n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00e1, poda\u0159ilo se n\u00e1m do konce prvn\u00edho dne urazit jen o n\u011bco v\u00edce ne\u017e \u010dty\u0159i kilometry.<\/p>\n

\"Kh\u00f4ng<\/p>\n

Jeliko\u017e n\u00e1m doch\u00e1zely baterie a bl\u00ed\u017eila se tma, nezb\u00fdvalo n\u00e1m nic jin\u00e9ho ne\u017e rozb\u00edt t\u00e1bor.<\/p>\n

V\u0161ichni jsme se shodli, \u017ee si brzy rozlo\u017e\u00edme t\u00e1bor, naj\u00edme se a trochu si odpo\u010dineme.<\/p>\n

\"Kh\u00f4ng<\/p>\n

Koupel v horsk\u00e9m potoce uprost\u0159ed zimy byla z\u00e1\u017eitkem sama o sob\u011b \u2013 a to z\u00e1\u017eitkem naprosto brut\u00e1ln\u00edm.<\/p>\n

Venku halila hory hust\u00e1 mlha a chlad pronikal p\u0159\u00edmo skrz na\u0161e oble\u010den\u00ed a\u017e na k\u016f\u017ei. Horsk\u00fd potok st\u00e9kaj\u00edc\u00ed z lesa byl doslova ledov\u00fd.<\/p>\n

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\n<\/div>\n

2. den<\/span><\/h2>\n

Probudit se za v\u00fdchodu slunce u horsk\u00e9ho potoka bylo skute\u010dn\u011b kouzeln\u00e9.<\/p>\n

Morning mist drifted through the forest, the first rays of sunlight appeared, and birds sang all around us.<\/p>\n

Na\u0161e energie a odhodl\u00e1n\u00ed se vr\u00e1tily.<\/p>\n

\"Kh\u00f4ng<\/p>\n

Znovu jsme vyrazili, p\u0159esv\u011bd\u010deni, \u017ee vrchol mus\u00ed b\u00fdt hned p\u0159ed n\u00e1mi.<\/p>\n

\u010c\u00edm bl\u00ed\u017ee jsme v\u0161ak byli vrcholu, t\u00edm strm\u011bj\u0161\u00ed byla stezka. Mech pokr\u00fdval t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 ka\u017ed\u00fd k\u00e1men star\u00e9 cesty, tak\u017ee povrch byl neuv\u011b\u0159iteln\u011b kluzk\u00fd.<\/p>\n

Hory obklopily mraky a mlha a za\u010dalo m\u00edrn\u011b mrholit.<\/p>\n

Obt\u00ed\u017enost t\u00e9 \u201ehry\u201c n\u00e1hle vylet\u011bla do z\u00e1vratn\u00fdch v\u00fd\u0161in.<\/p>\n

\"Kh\u00f4ng<\/p>\n

V t\u011bchto vysok\u00fdch poloh\u00e1ch, kde je chladn\u00e9 a vlhk\u00e9 podneb\u00ed, se po svaz\u00edch hor rozkl\u00e1daly rozs\u00e1hl\u00e9 kardamomov\u00e9<\/strong> lesy.<\/p>\n

Pot\u00e9, co jsme se vp\u0159ed plazili, se plaho\u010dili a tla\u010dili, jsme kone\u010dn\u011b dos\u00e1hli vrcholu pr\u00e1v\u011b ve chv\u00edli, kdy se za\u010dalo stm\u00edvat.<\/p>\n

Lid\u00e9 Hmong ze Sang Ma Pho naz\u00fdvaj\u00ed toto m\u00edsto Cong Troi \u2013 Nebesk\u00e1 br\u00e1na<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

\"Kh\u00f4ng<\/p>\n

M\u011bli jsme nyn\u00ed cel\u00fd den zpo\u017ed\u011bn\u00ed oproti harmonogramu, co\u017e bylo zcela mimo n\u00e1\u0161 p\u016fvodn\u00ed pl\u00e1n.<\/p>\n

Na\u0161e z\u00e1soby j\u00eddla se scvrkly na pouh\u00e9ho p\u016fl kilogramu su\u0161en\u00e9ho bizon\u00edho masa. Doch\u00e1zelo n\u00e1m j\u00eddlo a na\u0161e vlastn\u00ed energetick\u00e9 z\u00e1soby byly t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 zcela vy\u010derp\u00e1ny.<\/p>\n

Na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed jsme narazili na otce a syna z etnika Hmong, kte\u0159\u00ed n\u00e1m uk\u00e1zali cestu dol\u016f k mal\u00e9 ch\u00fd\u0161i na zpracov\u00e1n\u00ed kardamomu.<\/p>\n

\"Kh\u00f4ng<\/p>\n

Po dal\u0161\u00edm vy\u010derp\u00e1vaj\u00edc\u00edm sestupu jsme kone\u010dn\u011b dorazili k chat\u011b.<\/p>\n

Poda\u0159ilo se n\u00e1m sehnat trochu r\u00fd\u017ee a soli. S p\u016fl kilogramem su\u0161en\u00e9ho buvol\u00edho masa, kter\u00e9 jsme st\u00e1le m\u011bli v batoz\u00edch, jsme rozd\u011blali ohe\u0148 a p\u0159ipravili si jednoduch\u00e9 j\u00eddlo.<\/p>\n

Sta\u010dilo to k tomu, abychom si zah\u0159\u00e1li \u017ealudky a na\u010derpali s\u00edly k p\u0159e\u010dk\u00e1n\u00ed dal\u0161\u00ed noci hluboko v lese.<\/p>\n

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3. den<\/span><\/h2>\n

V t\u00e9 chv\u00edli dos\u00e1hly na\u0161e frustrace a vy\u010derp\u00e1n\u00ed naprost\u00e9ho maxima.<\/p>\n

\"Kh\u00f4ng<\/p>\n

A pak jsme kone\u010dn\u011b chytili sign\u00e1l.<\/p>\n

Okam\u017eit\u011b jsme zavolali do vesnice a po\u017e\u00e1dali o pomoc.<\/p>\n

P\u0159i\u0161li k n\u00e1m \u010dty\u0159i urostl\u00ed mu\u017ei z etnika Hmong a pom\u00e1hali n\u00e1m motorky tla\u010dit, t\u00e1hnout i p\u0159en\u00e1\u0161et p\u0159es ty nejobt\u00ed\u017en\u011bj\u0161\u00ed \u00faseky.<\/p>\n

Sjezd z vrcholu sm\u011brem k vesnici Tra Pha rozhodn\u011b nebyl snadn\u00fd. Na mnoha m\u00edstech byl dokonce n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed ne\u017e samotn\u00fd v\u00fdjezd. Cel\u00e1 trasa vedla po nerovn\u00fdch kamenit\u00fdch svaz\u00edch, kde kameny v\u0161ech velikost\u00ed pokr\u00fdval kluzk\u00fd mech. Men\u0161\u00ed motorky neust\u00e1le nar\u00e1\u017eely podvozkem do kamen\u016f, zat\u00edmco ty v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed m\u011bly pot\u00ed\u017ee s trakc\u00ed a \u010dasto vy\u017eadovaly pomoc n\u011bkolika lid\u00ed, kte\u0159\u00ed je museli p\u0159idr\u017eovat, aby nesklouzly ze svahu dol\u016f.<\/p>\n

\"Kh\u00f4ng<\/p>\n

Krajina cestou byla \u00fachvatn\u00e1. O kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 scen\u00e9rie nebyla nikdy nouze. Jedin\u00e9, \u010deho se nedost\u00e1valo, byla snadn\u00e1 cesta. Nakonec, po t\u0159ech dnech tla\u010den\u00ed, vle\u010den\u00ed, zved\u00e1n\u00ed a j\u00edzdy, jsme se kone\u010dn\u011b dostali do Tra Pha. A do\u0161li jsme k jednomu jasn\u00e9mu z\u00e1v\u011bru:<\/p>\n

\"Kh\u00f4ng<\/p>\n

\u00dasek star\u00e9 kamenn\u00e9 cesty Pavie, kter\u00fd spojuje Sang Ma Pho a Tra Pha, p\u0159edstavuje mimo\u0159\u00e1dnou trasu pro p\u011b\u0161\u00ed turistiku \u2013 rozhodn\u011b v\u0161ak nen\u00ed vhodn\u00fd pro motocykly.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Mo\u017en\u00e1 pr\u00e1v\u011b to ji \u010din\u00ed tak v\u00fdjime\u010dnou. N\u011bkter\u00e9 cesty nejsou ur\u010deny k tomu, abychom je zdolali rychle. N\u011bkter\u00e9 m\u00e1me pro\u017e\u00edt \u2013 pomalu, bolestiv\u011b, ne\u010dekan\u011b a spole\u010dn\u011b. D\u011bkujeme v\u0161em, kte\u0159\u00ed tuto cestu sd\u00edleli s n\u00e1mi. Za nezapomenuteln\u00e9 dny, nekone\u010dn\u00e1 stoup\u00e1n\u00ed, chladn\u00e9 horsk\u00e9 potoky, mlhu, vy\u010derp\u00e1n\u00ed, sm\u00edch, v\u00fdzvy \u2013 a p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm za vzpom\u00ednky, na kter\u00e9 nikdo z n\u00e1s nikdy nezapomene.<\/p>\n