A Few Stories About A Forgotten Historic Road

In the early 20th century, the French colonial administration set out to build and develop numerous new routes to facilitate the collection and transportation of forest products, natural resources and minerals, as well as the movement of weapons and supplies.

The stone road was approximately three metres wide — wide enough for people and horse-drawn carts to travel along.

According to stories passed down by elderly people and local residents regarded as knowledgeable in Lai Chau and Lao Cai, in 1927 Governor Auguste Jean-Marie Pavie ordered the construction of a road running from Sang Ma Sao – Tra Pha in Lào Cai, crossing the mountain slopes and the Nhiu Co San range before reaching Sang Ma Pho (Sin Suoi Ho) – Phong Tho – Muong So in Lai Chau.

Today, around 30 kilometres of the original stone road are still believed to remain, although much of it has suffered considerable damage over the years.

The construction of this road came at a tremendous human cost, demanding enormous amounts of sweat, hardship and, tragically, the lives of local labourers.

However, according to some sources, whether the road was actually built under Governor Pavie remains uncertain. For now, we continue to call it the Ancient Pavie Stone Road, as it has traditionally been known.

IN SEARCH OF THE ANCIENT STONE ROAD

Day 1

There were five motorcycles in our group — three off-road bikes and two Honda Waves. Yet once we entered the ancient stone road, every bike seemed equally difficult to ride.

The smaller bikes constantly got hung up on rocks and bottomed out, while the bigger bikes were heavy and difficult to manoeuvre.

Determined not to hire porters, we eagerly headed into Sang Ma Pho and entered the first section of the ancient stone road at around 1:00 p.m. on Saturday.

Soon, our phones began losing signal, gradually cutting us off from the outside world.

The scenery along the trail was mesmerizing. Ancient stone paving covered in moss led us higher into the mountains, and in some sections we found ourselves riding through carpets of fallen red maple leaves.

With every metre, the difficulty increased.

On many sections, it took three or four people to help push and guide a single motorcycle through. We kept telling ourselves:

“Once we get past this climb, the other side must be just ahead. We must be close to the summit.”

But every climb seemed to lead to another, and then another — seemingly without end.

Because the trail was so difficult, by the end of our first day we had managed to cover little more than four kilometres.

With our batteries running low and darkness approaching, we had no choice but to make camp.

All of us agreed to make camp, eat and get some rest early.

Taking a bath in a mountain stream during the winter was an experience in itself — and an absolutely brutal one.

Outside, thick fog covered the mountains and the cold cut straight through our clothes and skin. The mountain stream flowing down from the forest was, quite literally, like ice water.

Day 2

Waking up beside a mountain stream at sunrise was truly magical.

Morning mist drifted through the forest, the first rays of sunlight appeared, and birds sang all around us.

Our energy and determination returned.

We set off again, convinced that the summit must be just ahead.

The closer we got to the top, however, the steeper the trail became. Moss covered almost every stone in the old road, making the surface incredibly slippery.

Clouds and mist surrounded the mountains, and a light drizzle began to fall.

The difficulty level of the “game” suddenly went through the roof.

At these high elevations, where the climate is cool and humid, vast forests of cardamom stretched across the mountainsides.

After crawling, dragging and pushing our way forward, we finally reached the summit just as darkness was beginning to fall.

The H’Mong people of Sang Ma Pho call this place Cong Troi — Heaven’s Gate.

We were now a full day behind schedule, something completely beyond our original plan.

Our food supplies had been reduced to just half a kilogram of dried buffalo meat. We were running out of food, and our own energy reserves were almost completely depleted.

Fortunately, we encountered a H’Mong father and son who showed us the way down to a small cardamom hut.

After another exhausting descent, we finally reached the hut.

We managed to obtain a little rice and salt. With half a kilogram of dried buffalo meat still in our backpacks, we lit a fire and cooked a simple meal.

It was enough to warm our stomachs and give us the strength to survive another night deep in the forest.

Day 3

By this point, our frustration and exhaustion had reached their absolute limit.

Then, finally, we got a phone signal.

We immediately called the village and asked for help.

Four strong H’Mong men came up to meet us — helping push, pull and carry the motorcycles through the most difficult sections.

The descent from the summit towards Tra Pha Village was by no means easy. In fact, in many places, it was even harder than the climb up. The entire route consisted of uneven rocky slopes, with stones of every size covered in slippery moss. The smaller bikes constantly hit the rocks underneath, while the larger bikes struggled for traction and often needed several people to hold them back and keep them from sliding downhill.

The scenery along the way was spectacular. There was never a shortage of beautiful landscapes. The only thing in short supply was an easy road. Eventually, after three days of pushing, dragging, lifting and riding, we finally made it out to Tra Pha. And we came away with one clear conclusion:

The section of the Ancient Pavie Stone Road connecting Sang Ma Pho and Tra Pha is an extraordinary trekking route — but it is definitely not a route for motorcycles.

Still, perhaps that is exactly what makes it so special. Some roads are not meant to be conquered quickly. Some are meant to be experienced — slowly, painfully, unexpectedly, and together. Thank you to everyone who shared this journey with us. For the unforgettable days, the endless climbs, the cold mountain streams, the mist, the exhaustion, the laughter, the challenges — and above all, for the memories that none of us will ever forget.